PRINCIPLES OF COASTAL MORPHOLOGY (1998); Hardbound book; 730 pages
This book (hardbound, A4 size:215x295 mm, 730 pages, ISBN 90-800356-3-7) contains all details of morphology (incl. structures) along coasts, barrier islands and inlets consisting of mud, sand, gravel, rock, cliffs and reefs. The book is based on the analysis of many field data sets from all over the world.
The book includes a software tool (COASTRAN model) with an advanced numerical model to compute wave heights, longshore and cross-shore currents and longshore and cross-shore sand transport along any cross-shore coastal profile consisting of uniform/non-uniform sediment (sand/gravel).
The book and tool will help you to understand coastal processes and solve coastal engineering problems: design of beach and shoreface nourishments; design of groynes, jetties, seawalls, breakwaters; estimation of scour near structures, etc. The book is of interest to: earth and marine scientists, physical geographers, oceanographers, coastal engineers and managers.
1. INTRODUCTION (10 pages)
Types of coasts,
Types of sediments,
Sediment transport processes,
Morphological features, Scales,
Mathematical modelling and predictability.
2. COASTAL CLASSIFICATION (15 pages)
Descriptive and genetic classifications (primary and secondary coasts).
3. BASIC HYDRODYNAMIC PROCESSES IN COASTAL ZONE (33 pages)
Wind-induced waves (high and low-frequency waves),
Tide-induced waves and currents,
Wind-, density- and wave-induced currents.
4. SAND COASTS (540 pages)
Coastal evolution (Shoreline evolution concepts, long-term sea level rise),
Sand transport processes (bed-load transport, suspended load transport, estimates of cross-shore and longshore transport rates in deep water and in surf zone, cross-shore distribution of longshore transport, sediment transport by gravity, ice rafting and wind),
Cross-shore morphology (classification of profiles, equilibrium profiles, dune and beach morphology, surf zone morphology, grain size variations, effect of long-term water level change),
Longshore morphology of beaches and shorelines (beach and bar features like cusps, horns, bars and sand waves, accretion and erosion principles, spits, tombolos, salients, cuspate forelands, arcs, bays, headlands, delta coasts, longshore grain size variations),
Morphology of barrier islands and inlets (formation and maintenance of barrier islands, inlet behaviour, channel behaviour, examples, equilibrium dimensions, artificial closure of inlets),
Morphology of middle and lower shoreface (hydrodynamic and sand transport processes, sand waves and sand banks),
Sand budget (sand budget models, examples of straight coasts and barrier island coasts, example of geological sand balance),
Shoreline morphology near hard and soft coastal structures (natural defence system, groynes, inlet jetties and harbour breakwaters, detached breakwaters, seawalls, dikes and revetments, beach and shoreface nourishments, sand mining, cost),
Scour near structures (near sills, weirs, barrages, seawalls, wall-type breakwaters, rubble-type breakwaters, heads of breakwaters and groynes, pipes, piles, piers, gravity structures),
Mathematical modelling and predictability (process-related models, behaviour-related models, predictability).
5. ROCK, CLIFF, GRAVEL AND REEF COASTS (40 pages)
Rock and cliff coasts (definitions, features and examples, cliff erosion),
Gravel coasts (definitions, origin, transport processes, barrier types),
Morphology near structures.
6. MUD COASTS (52 pages)
Mud transport processes,
Mud-dominated coasts (definitions, examples, effect of sea level rise),
Cross-shore morphology (profile behaviour, examples),
Shoreline morphology (shoreline forms, salt marshes, mudflats and mudbanks),
Morphology near structures.
APPENDIX A COASTRAN-model (10 pages)
REFERENCES (30 pages)